Topic: travel
I just got back home from a week-and-a-half on the road. Actually many roads, plus a little stretch on the water. And the 600-mile trip – three-quarters by bicycle, the rest by ferry and rail – taught me much about the state of the union.
First I traveled westward via Amtrak from Rochester to Chicago. Not too much to report on this leg, though a four-hour delay on a scheduled eleven-hour train ride speaks volumes about the status of passenger rail service in Bushlandia. The current administration is not the only one responsible for the decline of this sector, of course. It’s taken decades of neglect and underfunding and turning a blind eye to technological progress (compare European and Asian high-speed service today) to bring our once-proud rail lines this low. But the flip side is just as obvious: we need to support Amtrak while it’s down – by riding the trains and applying political pressure where it will do some good.
Back to the road trip. After a fine weekend in downtown Chicago at my sister and brother-in-law’s place, I headed north along Cook County’s wonderful lakeside trail system. The Lake Michigan waterfront is one of the country’s treasures, more so because it’s open to the public. The system isn’t so good that it could compensate for Cook County’s atrocious inequalities of wealth and power. No amenity could do that. But the lakefront is still a great pleasure, a model of what can be done when public needs are put high on the agenda.
The trail runs for miles past beaches, a golf course, greenspaces wide and slender, and magnificent clusters of shade trees before morphing into a rail-trail – or more accurately a railside trail – in Evanston. But north of this posh community, which is as much defined by leafy suburban splendor as by Northwestern University, the lakeside changes character. Things start looking more Rust Belt-ish, particularly in economically stressed communities like Waukegon. And the Great Lakes military base and hospital can’t be ignored, much as you try. Here we are, more than a thousand miles from the Atlantic or Pacific, and we’ve got a major naval installation held over from World War Two, when it may have served an actual purpose, and worse, pumped up by Pentagon spending into what must suffice for a regional economic anchor. Such is the price, I guess, of maintaining a credible deterrent to Canadian expansionism.
Another odd convergence: This afternoon I was watching Democracy Now on Cable Channel 15, and what did they have but a segment with a Vietnam vet and Veterans for Peace member who was arrested at a Chicago VA hospital just before the Independence Day weekend. It seems that Mike Ferner, who's been working with Kathy Kelly, founder of the Chicago-based Voices in the Wilderness organization, entered the facility while wearing a VfP t-shirt, an act interpreted as staging a protest.
Ferner, who mentioned he'd done his basic training at the Great Lakes base, said he'd only gone inside to have a cup of coffee. The wheels of justice are turning at this moment - more slowly and heavily than bicycle wheels, no doubt - and it remains to be seen if the charges against Ferner, including criminal trespass, will stand. Ferner wondered aloud whether the VA will come to its senses and drop the charges. I hope the brass try to stick it to him, actually. He'll beat the rap with no problem, and the VA will have a whole omelet on its face - and Ferner and Kelly's principled opposition to the Iraq war will get wide publicity.
(More instalments to follow about the trip, so visit this blog again soon.)